【 加 纳 帕 戈 斯 群 岛 】
在遥远的东太平洋海面上 Far out in the eastern Pacific is a scattering of islands ruled
分布着零星的岛屿，它们被狂暴的自然力量所主宰
by the brutal forces of nature
一块烈火肆虐的土地 a land ravaged by fire
任由海洋生杀予夺 At the mercy of an ocean that can nourish but also cripple
一个充满对抗和厮杀的世界 a world in turmoil
这个故事将要讲述加纳帕戈斯的生命群体 This is the story of how life in Galapagos is shaped by the relentless forces of change
是怎样在过去、现在和未来的力量下不断发生变化 Past, present and future
『 力 量 的 变 革 』
加纳帕戈斯位于距离南美洲600英里的海面上 Galapagos lie 600 miles off the coast of south America
正处在赤道地带 right on the equator
他是世界上火山最活跃的群岛之一 It's one of the most volcanically active groups of islands in the world
在其西面的边缘地带 And on its western edge towers the most imposing, most hostile of them all
有一座巨型火山
称为“费尔南迪纳” a colossus called Fernandina
在过去的两百年里，这座火山至少喷发过24次 In the last 200 years
this volcano has erupted at least 24 times
火山口高达海拔1英里 Its caldera towers a mile above sea level
但是，有一种动物必须爬到顶部 but there's one animal
that has no option but to scale its summit
陆鬣蜥 the land iguana
怀孕的雌鬣蜥需要找 Every pregnant female needs to find a patch of volcanic ash in which to lay her eggs
有火山灰的地方产卵
但合适的产卵地很少，即使有也在很远 But suitable sites are few and far between
最合适的产卵地是被火山烟孔熏热的地方，就在这座巨岛的边缘 and the best, warmed by fumaroles
lie right on the rim of this giant
爬上去的过程是一个非常严酷的考验 有时可能需要花费数星期的时间 Climbing there is a punishing ordeal
which can take weeks
这只雌鬣蜥来的不是时候 This female has not timed her journey well
所有的好地方都已经有了主人 All the good sites have been taken,
它除了去争去抢别无他法 so she has no choice but to challenge those in residence
凶狠的架势有时能吓倒对手而取得胜利 Aggressive body language can sometimes force a victory
但是，这个主人不愿意轻易放弃自己的地盘 but the rightful owner won't relinquish her ground easily
一巢二主已是不可能 so it's all or nothing
一场雌性动物之间的残酷搏斗 A ruthless catfight
这只怀孕的雌鬣蜥被赶了出去 The pregnant female is sent packing
它的地盘被竞争者夺取 evicted from the prime nesting grounds by her rival
现在只能去寻找别的产卵地 She's now forced to look elsewhere
但费尔南迪纳剩下的唯一合适产卵地 But the only other suitable sites on Fernandina lie deep within this giant caldera
在火山口底部半英里深的地方
half a mile down
而它不得不胆战心惊地往下爬 She must make a terrifying decent
最小的失误也可致命 The smallest slip could be fatal
无数条摔下来的雌鬣蜥都葬身于此 Countless iguanas have been buried by landslides
这只雌鬣蜥算是幸运脱险了 But this female has a lucky escape
对于任何动物，要在加纳帕戈斯找到立足点都是困难的 For any animal, finding a foothold on Galapagos is tough work
这座巨岛是火山热点的产物 This cluster of islands are the product of a volcanic hotspot
从数百、甚至数千英里的下面
where scorching rock rises from hundreds, possibly thousands of miles beneath to punch at the earth's crust
冲破地壳才到达地表
加纳帕戈斯如今共有6座非常活跃的火山 There're 6 highly active volcanos in Galapagos today
每隔数年爆发一次，有时，一次爆发会持续数月 One erupts every few years
Sometimes for months at a time
火山作用是最能促使加纳帕戈斯发生巨变的力量 Volcanism is the fundamental force in Galapagos
能在几万年内就创造出数座岛屿 It can build an island in just tens of thousands of years
也能在顷刻间把一切生命吞噬掉
And it can wipe out life in an instant
像这样的灾难发生后，动物和植物只能重新寻找合适的土地 After such catastrophic events,
animals and plants are forced to find new ground
这块新形成的熔岩地表面状如筋腱，犹如火星毫无生机 The fresh sinewy lava fields seem as lifeless as Mars
但熔岩仙人掌是生命的先锋 But the lava cactus is a tough pioneer
它是第一批侵入这块炙热领地的植物 It's one of the first plants to invade this baking hot terrain
其肉质茎能很好地储存水分
storing moisture in its succulent stems
熔岩和海水交汇的地方总有扎根在岩石上的红树林身影 And where the lava reaches the coastline, mangroves anchor themselves to the rocks
有四种红树属植物在这片加纳帕戈斯海岸扎了根 Four species have managed to colonize the brittle shores of Galapagos
红树林的种子耐咸，是被海浪冲到这里来的 Their salt-tolerant seeds brought here on the ocean currents
它们能扎在海湾又能扎在陆地，根部堆积了密密麻麻的淤泥 Settling in bays and inlets
the roots accumulate all sorts of silty debris
是海岸线上的生命栖息地 helping to offer life a purchase on the shoreline
红树林能为鱼类提供重要的食物来源 Mangrove forests are crucial nursery grounds for fish
随海浪飘来的浮游生物为它提供营养 fed by plankton and nutrients flowing in and out with the tides
密密麻麻的植被可遮挡赤道烈日的照射 The tangle of vegetation also provides welcome shade from the equatorial sun
然而在这种环境即使红树也生长艰难 But even mangroves struggle to settle on the newest and most exposed lava shorelines
不过，有一种动物 There is, however, one animal
它已学会了怎样利用这里恶劣的环境 that has learnt how to benefit from this harsh, volcanic terrain
加纳帕戈斯海狗 The Galapagos fur seal
它们的祖先很久以前就从南极洲迁徙到这里 Its ancestors arrived here long ago from the sub Antarctic
为了躲避正午时的炎热，海狗经常躲到一个幽凉的地方 To escape the midday heat, they've discovered cold hideouts
熔岩石洞，由密密麻麻的管状碎熔岩构筑而成 Lava grottoes formed by networks of broken lava tubes
迷宫般的洞穴和隧道为海狗提供绝妙的保护 The labyrinth of caves and tunnels provide perfect shelter for fur seals
它们是同类中最小 the smallest of their kind in the world
体积是他们的亲戚海豹的三分之一，海豹也会到熔岩石洞来 They're a third the size of their sea lion cousins
which also visit these grottoes
海狗长有后毛皮 Fur seals have naturally thick pelts
毛皮由很好的隔热作用，毛皮中的空气也起了部分作用 which provide good insulation
helped by air trapped among the fur
它们眼睛特别发达，能在暗处觅食 Big bulging eyes allow them to hunt in the dark
犯不着跟海狮白天争食 a strategy that avoids direct competition with sea lions
海狗通常在陆地上求偶 Though fur seals normally court on land
但有时也在水中互相嬉戏，就在波涛之下 adolescents will sometimes test the water with one another
beneath the waves
在加纳帕戈斯，地质力量 Geological force in Galapagos
创造了千姿百态、大小各异的岛群 has created a cluster of islands of all shapes and sizes
一些是火山灰堆积形成的石柱 Some are pillars of compacted ash
另一些是岩浆喷发后产生的 Others forged from explosions of lava
一百多座大小岛屿犹如喷洒在洋面的点缀 More than 100 islands, islets and rocky outcrops sprinkle the ocean
其中最独特的岛位于遥远的加纳帕戈斯西北边缘 The most unusual lies in the far northwestern reaches of the archipelago
“圆岩” Roca Redonda
这块从海面上凸起的巨石顶部平坦，高一千英尺 This giant slab of an unscalable rock, stands a thousand feet tall
如同一根擎天大柱，有无数的海鸟在此筑巢
and is a precious outpost for nesting seabirds
燕尾鸥体态优美，是最珍惜的鸟类之一 Swallow-tailed gulls are among the rarest and most exquisite
也是世界上唯一在夜间活动的鸥鸟 They are the only nocturnal gulls in the world
它们晚上在水面上捕食小鱼和鱿鱼 and they forage at night for small fish and squid in the surface waters
特别发达的眼睛发挥了作用 aided by their unusually large eyes
这座岛屿生机盎然 This island teems with life
它的四周是富饶的大海，隐藏着一个不为人知的秘密 And the productive seas that envelop it hide a secret to its wealth
圆岩实际上比我们所看到的要复杂得多 There's far more to Roca Redonda than meets the eye
这座岛实际上是一座巨大的海底火山的顶端 This island is actually the tip of a giant undersea volcano
其高约2英里，宽达12英里 nearly 2 miles tall and 12 miles wide
深海测量学 Bathymetric studies, examining the depths of the ocean using sonar tracks
一种通过声纳探测海洋深度的技术
使我们对这个群岛观察提升到全新的层面 give the archipelago a whole new dimension
加纳帕戈斯是海底火山链 Galapagos is a chain of submarine volcanos
中心处在海底一个广阔的平台上 but have coalesced into a vast underwater platform
这座气势宏大的基柱 This monumental plinth
彻底改变了从其两侧横扫的洋流的前进路线 drastically changes the rooting of the currents that sweep its flanks
它使得西来的克伦威尔寒流
It forces the cool, Cromwell current heading in from the west
猛然从海底上升了起来 to surge up from the ocean floor
夜幕降临的时候 As night falls
这股矿物质含量丰富的上升流 给加纳帕戈斯蒙上了一层迷幻的色彩 this mineral-rich upwelling
brings the supernatural to Galapagos
千奇百怪的海底生物浮游而上 The most bizarre creatures rise from abyss
三维空间里的垂直运动 A vertical migration in a 3-Dimensional world
海洋里四处浮游的生物有些就像浮动的城堡 Some of these ocean vagrants are floating fortresses
鱼儿喜欢躲到里面去 providing precious shelter
对于其他生物，像这只螳螂虾幼虫 For others, like this mantis shrimp larvae
体型小又不引人注意，是它能够存活下来的关键 being small and inconspicuous is key to survival
小拟蝉虾，犹如一座精巧设计的玻璃雕塑 Young slipper lobsters are exquisite glass sculptures
而楬水母更是光彩夺目，仿佛是照耀黑暗海洋的彩色灯塔 While comb jellies are far more flamboyant
beacons of color in a sea of darkness
加纳帕戈斯正显露出前所未有的面貌 Galapagos as it's never been seen before
破晓时分，营养物含量丰富的克伦威尔洋流 沐浴在赤道的阳光之下 As day breaks
the nutrient-rich Cromwell current
is bathed by the equatorial sun
悬浮在水中的是大量的海洋微藻 微藻是海洋生命无穷无尽的食物源 triggering blooms of microscopic algae
that feed an explosion of life
这股至关重要的洋流，有利于加纳帕戈斯一些最奇特的生物 This vital current has helped some of the strangest Galapagos creatures
像这些寒水企鹅，在赤道地带生活 like these cold water penguins to live at this latitude
克伦威尔洋流仅仅是滋养加纳帕戈斯的多种洋流之一 The Cromwell current is only one of many that feeds Galapagos
从南方涌入另一股寒流，洪堡洋流 Flowing in from the south, comes another cold current
洪堡洋流与西进的南赤道洋流交汇 the Humboldt
merging with the south equatorial current heading west
从中美洲涌来的是巴拿马暖流 And from Central America, comes the warm Panama flow
这股洋流物含量稀少 This current is poorer in nutrient than the others
使得这块北方水域及其缺乏生命力 making these northern waters the least productive
这里的动物需要真我特殊的本领 Animals here need to be resourceful
成群结队的六带鲹是一个奇特的清洁站 Shoals of big eye jacks gather at particular cleaning stations
吸引了色彩缤纷的约翰兰德蝴蝶鱼的目光 attracting the attention of colorful barber fish
约翰兰德蝴蝶鱼喜欢吃鲹鱼皮肤上的寄生虫 The barber fish like to feed on skin parasites from the Jacks
这是一件对双方都有利的事情 It's a mutually beneficial arrangement
尽管地处赤道 Despite being on the equator
加纳帕戈斯稳定的温暖水域却非常有限 Galapagos has a limited number of warm stable pockets of water
珊瑚的种类寥寥无几 There're just a couple of dozen species of coral
牡丹珊瑚伤痕遍体，是因为受到了白点叉鼻鲀的攻击 Pavona corals bear the scars of an assault
by Guineafowl Puffer fish
它们大口采食海藻 They pluck crunchy mouthfuls of algae
珊瑚的侵蚀，有利于斑点鹰鳐重要的觅食地的形成 Coral errosion helps to create an important feeding ground for spotted eagle rays
它们喜欢一种加纳帕戈斯的角落 They prefer corners of Galapagos
在那里，珊瑚、贝壳的残骸和被侵蚀的熔岩混杂在一起 where the remains of corals and shells mingle with eroded lava
那些地方有大量的软体动物和介壳动物 They're rich in mollusks and crustations
鳐鱼会用强而有力的下颚消灭它们 which the rays root out with their powerful, crushing jaws
在这片水底草原上还生活着一种特别胆小的鱼 These aquatic prairies are also home to rather nervous local residents
它们似乎特别害怕鳐鱼 They seem to find the rays particularly intimidating
其实鳐鱼并不危险 although there's no real threat
加纳帕戈斯花园鳗 Galapagos garden eels
它们靠截获在水中漂浮的植物为食 who intercept plankton passing by
在加纳帕戈斯的其他地方，寒冷而富饶的水资源占主导地位 In the rest of Galapagos cold and fertile waters prevail
滋养了一大片绿藻地，属赤道地带最茂盛的 nourishing fields of green algae richer here than anywhere else on the equator
这是黄尾刺尾鱼的主食 This is an important food for gangs of yellow-tailed surgeon fish
养植这些绿藻的，是一条独来独往的雀鲷 This algal farmer, a solitary damselfish
突然发现这顿大餐被一群掠夺者抢走了 suddenly finds his harvest hijacked by marauders
这篇海底牧场栖息着一种古老的海洋迁徙性动物 These marine pastures
are a choice habitat for an ancient ocean wanderer
the Pacific green turtle
太平洋绿海龟
通常，加纳帕戈斯绿海龟被认为是独一无二的亚种 It's thought the Galapagos turtles are a unique subspecies
因为它们一般外表黝黑 as they are unusually dark
也许这样有助于吸收阳光，能更好地应付寒冷的水下环境 Perhaps to help them absorb the sun's warmth and cope better in these chilly waters
这里是整个太平洋 Here is one of the richest concentrations of green turtles anywhere in the Pacific
绿海龟最集中的地方
绿海龟的聚集时间很有规律 Green turtles time their gathering carefully
每年有数月进行求偶和交配 For a few month a year they come together to greet and mate
即使在最有挑战性的环境里 Even in the most challenging conditions
也没有什么能阻挡这只强悍的雄龟完成任务 Nothing stops this ambitious male from completing the task in hand
大部分绿龟等到暖季才在海岸上产卵 Most green turtles lay their eggs on these shores during the warmer season
这个时侯洪堡洋流已经减弱 when the Humboldt current slackens
也许暖和一点更有利于孵化 Perhaps that warmth helps with incubation
小龟通常在几个月后才破蛋而出 But their hatchlings will emerge several months later
那个时侯寒冷的洪堡洋流又重整旗鼓，声势浩大 At a time when this cold current reestablishes itself with gusto
有半年时间，加纳帕戈斯受洪堡洋流影响 For half the year, the Humboldt current dominates Galapagos
随之而来是凉爽而干燥的东南信风 arriving with cool and dry southeasterly trade winds
信风带来“加鲁亚季节” And it brings with it the 'Garua Season'
“雾季” The misty season
此时，上升流最强，营养物含量达到最丰富的程度 It's now, with upwelling at its strongest and the water's most productive
龟、鱼和海鸟有了可靠的食物源 that turtles, fish and seabirds can bank on a steady supply of food
全世界三分之一的蓝脚鲣鸟生活在加纳帕戈斯 Three quarters of the world's population of blue-footed boobies live in the Galapagos
在条件有利的时候，蓝脚鲣鸟总是反应迅速 They react fast when conditions are favorable
脚是方便的刹车工具 Feet, a handy breaks
鲣鸟，即“Booby”，来自“Bobo”一词 The name booby
derives from the word 'bobo'
在西班牙语里意为“小丑” the Spanish for 'clown'
也许是因为鲣鸟夸张的抬脚姿势 Perhaps because of their exaggerated footsteps
这种求偶舞是加纳帕戈斯独有的仪式 This courtship dance is a Galapagos ritual
脚抬得越高，机会就越大 The higher his foot lift, the better his chances
它仰头向天表示有兴趣 Sky pointing builds her interest
雌鸟有所表示，在模仿雄鸟的姿势 She commits, mirroring his every move
现在回到基本的要求 It's back to basics
鲣鸟能随时停止繁殖 Boobies can switch off their breeding season at any moment
如果洋流没有来的话 if the ocean fails to deliver
在气候好的一年下两三个蛋 In a good year,
2 or 3 eggs are laid
雌鸟和雄鸟共同承担遮阳和孵化的任务 with both parents taking turns to shade and incubate
纳斯卡鲣鸟是蓝脚鲣鸟的近亲 Nazca boobies are close relatives of blue-footed boobies
但它们的觅食地离海岸更远、捕食范围也更广 but feed much further off shore with a wider hunting range
它们的繁殖虽然有固定的周期 They also had a fixed breeding cycle
但其中的故事却非常曲折 But there's a twist in their tale
纳斯卡鲣鸟一次下两个蛋，如果两个蛋都能顺利孵化 Nazca boobies lay 2 eggs
那么，两只雏鸟的年龄将相差三至七天 and if both successfully hatch
there's an age gap of 3-7 days
大雏鸟将很快建立权威 The older, larger chick is quick to stamp his authority
这是恃强凌弱的野蛮做法 It's a brutal, bullying business
大雏鸟拼命地把小雏鸟往巢外推 The elder sibling pushes the other as far from the nest as possible
尽管这就发生在母鸟的喙底下 Although this happens right under the mother’s beak
母鸟却无动于衷 She does nothing to intervene
被驱逐出去的雏鸟要么脱水而死，要么被其他动物吃掉 The evicted chick now faces certain death through dehydration
or predation
永远只有一只雏鸟能活下来 Only one chick ever survives
没有人能够真正理解，为什么只有纳斯卡鲣鸟的同巢雏鸟相互残杀 No one fully understands
why siblicide always occurs among Nazca boobies
难道母鸟下蛋时，想到了一个蛋可能会遭到毁坏 而下两个蛋作为保险措施？ Do the parents produce 2 eggs
as insurance policy in case one is destroyed?
或者这是一种进化残留现象？ Or is this an evolutionary relic from the past
这种鸟曾经能够轻松地养大两只雏鸟 when this species was comfortably able to raise 2 young?
不管是那种情况 Whatever the case,
对于纳斯卡鲣鸟，这种方式是在 这个残酷的世界存活下来的有效手段 for Nazca boobies
this system is very effective in a world where the stakes are so high
在加纳帕戈斯，海洋既能哺育又能毁灭生命 In Galapagos, the ocean is both a giver and a taker
这里的生命已经以非凡的方式适应了这种反复无常 Life has found some extraordinary ways to deal with its mood swings
但在这些荒凉的海岸上，自然的杀伤力仍然非常强大 But on these remote shores
it's still a hostage to the elements
每隔三到十年，加纳帕戈斯就会出现严重的失控局面 Every 3-10 years
conditions in Galapagos get seriously out of kilter
厄瓜多尔人把这种现象成为“厄尔尼诺” It's an event described by the people of Ecuador and Peru as El Nino
意为“圣婴”，因为厄尔尼诺就发生在圣诞节前后 meaning 'the boy child' because it often begins around Christmas
信风强度减弱，洪堡洋流威力消退 Trade winds diminish and the cool Humboldt current slackens
不再对加纳帕戈斯造成任何影响 Failing to make its impact felt in Galapagos
取而代之的是一股向东的、暖和的表层洋流 It is replaced by much warmer surface waters moving east across the Pacific
热带大雨给干旱的大地带来了滋润 Tropical downpours sweep in bringing welcome relief to the land
江河诞生 Rivers are born
草木茂盛 Plants flourish
但是，厄尔尼诺对海洋的影响是灾难性的 But the impact of El Nino on the ocean
is catastrophic
上一次厄尔尼诺袭来的时候，大部分海狮的幼子都被活活地饿死 When it last truck
most sea lion pubs starved to death
母海狮不能产奶 Mothers were unable to produce enough milk
因为它们失去了主食——沙丁鱼 because of extreme shortages of their main prey - Sardines
一些领地死了一半数量的海狮 In some colonies, more than half of all sea lions died
对于海鬣蜥，厄尔尼诺的影响简直是致命的 For marine iguanas
the impact of El Nino can be just as dire
温暖的海水破坏了它们的主食——绿藻 Warmer water wipes out green algae - their main food source
这些岛屿靠海洋提供养料 These islands depend on the ocean as a provider of life
但是不保证任何事情
but nothing is guaranteed
地质力量和气候力量在不断地改变加纳帕戈斯的面貌 Profound geological and climatic forces constantly reshape Galapagos
这里的生命极富韧性，有很好的适应能力 Life here is resilient and adaptable to change
很快就能从灾难中恢复过来 and with time, it can recover from natural catastrophe
加纳帕戈斯是生长着世界上最大的原始森林的热带群岛 Galapagos is the most pristine tropical archipelago in the world
百分之九十五的原生动植物至今仍然完好 95% of native wildlife is still intact
与世隔绝的状态对岛屿起了一定的保护作用 Isolation has helped protect these islands
但最近一股能够引起变化的新力量开始形成 But in recent times a new force of change has emerged
这种力量正在迅速增强 one that is rapidly gaining momentum
人类自己！ ourselves
每年来加纳帕戈斯的游客已超过十万 More than 100,000 visitors come to Galapagos each year
To help support this growing interest
对这座岛屿的兴趣日益加深还表现在
本地的人口在最近五十年突飞猛进 the local population was dramatically risen in the last 50 years
数量从两千不到激增到三万 from less than 2,000 to 30,000
维持游客和居民所需的物质在急速增长 The resources needed to sustain visitors and residents are spiraling
通往南美大陆的空中和海上桥梁应运而生 There's now a sort of air and sea bridge with mainland South America
随着人群和商品源源不断地流入，加纳帕戈斯不再与世隔绝 With a constant stream of people and goods
Galapagos is no longer isolated
有害的物种也随之而来 And with this flow of traffic
对脆弱的现状构成了威胁
come unwanted species that threatened the delicate status quo
引入的物种已超过原生物种 Already there are more introduced plants here than native ones
奎宁树原本作为药用植物被引入这里 Quinine trees brought in as a medical crop
现在却多得快要吞噬海燕筑巢的地方 swamp natural habitat where rare birds like petrels nest
尽管人们千方百计地要解决问题，然而，挑战与日俱增 Despite efforts to curb the problems
the challenges keep on growing
在所有引进的物种里面，山羊最具破坏性 Of all the introduced species
goats have been the most destructive
它们几个世纪前就被海盗、捕鲸者和水手带到这里 They were brought here centuries ago
by buccaneers, whalers and sealers as a reliable food supply
作为可靠食物源
但现在它们吃光了这里的土地 这对巨龟等原生动物构成了严重威胁 but they've stripped the native plants
out competing animals like giant tortoises
尽管困难重重，唯一可行的方法只有采取消灭行动 Hard though it is
the only viable solution to this problem is eradication
在最近两年 Over the last 2 years
加纳帕戈斯最大两座岛上的几万只山羊被清除 tens of thousands of goats have been removed from 2 of the largest Galapagos islands
现在，这片土地有了复苏机会 The land now has a chance to recover
加纳帕戈斯被恐惧、被诅咒了几百年 Galapagos was, for centuries feared and reviled
但自从两百年前达尔文来过之后 But ever since Charles Darwin's visit nearly 200 years ago
我们开始以新的眼光审视这些岛屿，它们已经引起了全世界的关注 we've seen these islands in a new light
and it has captured the attention of the world
这座群岛是一个奇妙的“生命熔炉” This archipelago is a fascinating crucible for life
它还在演变，还将给人带来惊喜 It continues to evolve and surprise
加纳帕戈斯，对达尔文的影响是如此深刻 So great was its impact on Darwin
以至于达尔文后来称它是自己一切思想的起源 that he would later claimed the Galapagos islands to be the origins of all his views
而现在是我们对加纳帕戈斯造成了巨大影响 Today, it is our impact on Galapagos
我们的所作所为将决定这座群岛的未来 and how we choose to manage it that will determine the island's future
如果成功，将会为所有人指出道路 If that succeeds, it can point the way for everyone
加纳帕戈斯，毕竟，是我们这个星球内部的小宇宙 Galapagos, is, after all, a microcosm of our planet
Transcription by Andrew & Hattie